Toy craft by Baxter Leon H

Author:Baxter, Leon H. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Toys, Woodwork (Manual training)
Publisher: Milwaukee, Wis., The Bruce publishing company
Published: 1922-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

The centers are first obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a J4" bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first

P/ofe 33

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TOY CRAFT

be unfastened at one end, inserted in the hole and re-tightened on the opposite side. Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.

A small block y 2 "xiy 2 "x2y" is attached to the back of the board with %" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.

The long brace is made I / 2 "x2 l /s"xl8 I / 2 " and is held to the small block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2" from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2" from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.

After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more if necessary.

Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up well.

The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces

made the same as those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.

DART BOARD GAME.

This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.

The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood—bass, pine or white wood is suitable—and cut to 15" wide by 2iy>" long, from %" material. The top edge is chamfered %".

The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be gotten out. The main support is %"x2^"xl9". A hole is bored with a No. 10 bit, 1 9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out y&" wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A piece of y" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as shown.

The smaller piece Y is cut %"x^"xl7" and is held to piece X by a quarter-inch dowel, as shown.

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